By John Dunkelgrün
It is a little-known fact that within the venerable rowing club Njord in Leiden, there is a unique circle called the Waka Crew (het Waka Gezelschap). To understand its origin, one must travel back in time. On February 6th, 1840, the British Crown signed an agreement with over 500 Māori chiefs at Waitangi on New Zealand’s North Island. The Treaty of Waitangi, unique in colonial history, is seen as the founding document of New Zealand.
Since Dutch explorer Abel Tasman discovered the islands in 1642 – who famously declined to set foot on land following a less-than-amicable reception – the Māori population has grown from about 50,000 before first contact to nearly one million today. Today, they make up almost 20% of the nation. While challenges in government relations remain, the Māori population is still growing, and their economy is doing well. Their culture and language (te reo Māori) are both protected and celebrated. Ambassador Frater even started her speech in Leiden with an introduction in te reo Māori.
A Legacy of Reciprocity
Throughout the colonial era, European institutions amassed large amounts of cultural artifacts, often obtained under dubious circumstances. This prompted the well-known Dutch author W.F. Hermans to call the British Museum “the world’s largest pirate chest.” In the late 20th century, a global shift in perspectives caused former colonies to start requesting the return of their treasures.
The Wereldmuseum (formerly the Museum voor Volkenkunde) maintains a deep interest in the cultures of Oceania. This relationship reached a turning point in 2005 when the museum returned a Toi Moko – a mummified tattooed head – to the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum in Wellington. In a gesture of profound gratitude and partnership, New Zealand granted a 100-year loan of a specially commissioned, elaborately carved Waka taua (war canoe). Named Te Hono ki Aotearoa, the vessel was crafted by the legendary Sir Hekenukumai Busby. To facilitate paddling practice, a smaller canoe was also gifted.
The Waka Crew at Njord
To master the art of paddling and maintaining the craft, a group of Njord members formed the Waka Crew. Each year, members travel to New Zealand to participate in the Waitangi Day celebrations on February 6th. There, they immerse themselves in te reo Māori, learn traditional Haka dances, and study the sacred customs surrounding the Waka.
To welcome the new Ambassador, H.E. Ms. Charlotte Frater, the Waka crew invited her and her family to the Njord boathouse on the Oude Rijn in Leiden. Welcomed by President Cees Huige, the party received an in-depth guided tour. Ms. Chris Buijvoets, a veteran Waka Crew member and acting captain (Tāhimana), shared her experiences living and working with Māori. Over the years, these bonds have become so strong that she now considers her New Zealand counterparts as family.
More Than a Tool
In honor of the visit, the Ambassador, adorned by a traditional feathered cloak of importance (a kakalu huru huru), presented Njord with a ceremonial paddle (hoe). This beautifully carved piece was created specifically for the Netherlands by master carver Mr. Billy Harrison.
“Paddles are much more than just tools to move across the ocean or a canal,” the Ambassador explained. “They are a symbol of leadership, partnership, and forward momentum. A hoe represents the idea that progress is only possible when people paddle in unison.”
The strong bonds between New Zealand, the Waka crew, and Njord could not be better represented than by this magnificent hoe, which unites two maritime nations whose histories and identities are deeply tied to the sea.
