Towards a Common Future Commonwealth Day, 12 March 2018

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Towards a Common Future Commonwealth Day, 12 March 2018
Message by the Commonwealth of Nations Secretary-General, HE The Rt Hon Baroness Scotland of Asthal 
Never before in the history of our family of nations has there been such a remarkable season of gatherings as that heralded by Commonwealth Day 2018.
Over coming weeks at the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting and associated forums, leaders and representatives of the people in all 53 of our member countries will assemble to work and plan together. We will share and learn from one another, and be motivated to ever greater heights of endeavour and achievement. There will also be the Commonwealth Games, with compelling scenes of athletic prowess, tenacity and triumph. Huge new audiences worldwide will deepen in understanding of what the Commonwealth is, what it does, and how it brings positive change for the good of all. An example of this is the Commonwealth Blue Charter currently being developed. By agreeing to protect the health of oceans and marine life, and to use the precious resources they yield in responsible and sustainable ways, we will be sharing more fairly the benefits they bestow, and preserving these for future generations. Wherever we live – on island or coast, or inland where streams and rivers flow to the sea – our actions and the way we live affects life in the ocean. In turn, the health of the ocean affects our own wellbeing, our weather, our food, our trade and our prosperity. Industrial and domestic waste pollutes great rivers and their tributaries, or flows directly into the sea. Plastic and other toxic waste materials poison the ocean, which belongs to us all and is vital to our common future. Just as we work together in the Commonwealth to preserve the health of the ocean, we cooperate in many other ways for the common good. Our member countries have committed to nurture and protect democracy, development and respect for diversity so that people of all communities can live safer and healthier lives, and share in the fruits of prosperity. This includes preventing greed and corruption, unfairness, or partisan discord from poisoning politics and public life. We work together to achieve this by creating channels through which good ideas and clever ways of doing things flow from the governments and people of all our countries into a continually renewed and refreshed Commonwealth ocean of knowledge. It is an ecosystem of experience and expertise in which all give and all gain. Through our ‘Faith in the Commonwealth’ project, we draw wisdom and insights from secular streams of thought, and from the many communities and traditions that are the sea of faith. Such resources and riches add to all that we celebrate on Commonwealth Day, and they are indeed treasures to be cherished and shared. There are opportunities for each and every one of us as members of the worldwide Commonwealth family to become involved. With our fellow citizens, we live, learn, work and play in countries set in every continent and ocean – all 2.4 billion of us, representing a glorious spectrum of diversity and talent. It is by living and working for the good of one another, towards a common future, that we build our Commonwealth. ————–
For further information: http://thecommonwealth.org/media/press-release/commonwealth-day-message-secretary-general ————– Baroness Scotland of Asthal – Picture by the commonwealth.org

Rwanda Coffee at the Amsterdam Coffee Festival

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Rwanda Coffee at the Amsterdam Coffee Festival
On the  picture Mr. Beau – Special Roast, H.E. Jean Pierre Karabaranga, Ambassador of Rwanda / The Hague, Mr. Lennart Clerkx – This Side Up Coffees, Mr. Hendrik – Special Roast Barrista – Special Roast, Mr. Erik – Rose & Vanilla.

After the big successes at the Amsterdam Coffee Festival in 2015 and 2016, this year on 9, 10 and 11 March, the Embassy of the Republic of Rwanda in the Netherlands and This Side Up joined forces with Special Roast (coffee roaster and retailer) and Bakery Rose & Vanilla for a new approach to promote Rwandan Coffee.

The participation was supported by Rwanda National Agricultural Export Development Board (NAEB).

‘Rwanda is a​ ​unique coffee origin because of its location and its people. ​I​t​s​ climate gives rise to excellent coffees that are sweet, often tea-like and rich in acidity, and ​the country’s quick rise to the highest specialty ranks inspires producers worldwide.’ ‘At the Amsterdam Coffee Festival 2018 Rwanda showcased the truly transparent coffee value chain, from award-winning farmer cooperatives in Rwanda to specialty coffee roasters abroad’, said H.E. Ambassador Jean Pierre Karabaranga.

Rwanda coffee is imported by several Dutch companies, including This Side Up, which is a platform that allows coffee roasters in Europe to trade transparently with coffee farmers in Rwanda.

The Embassy of Rwanda in collaboration with NAEB and This Side Up invited several producers from Rwanda to come to the festival or to send the best coffee varieties to be roasted for the Amsterdam Coffee Festival.

‘Throughout the day we held walk-cuppings and visitors to the booth were inspired with everything they wanted to know about these coffees’, Lennart Clerkx of This Side Up said. ‘New this edition were the pastries made from Rwandan Coffee, freshly baked by bakery Rose&Vanilla’.

Being present at the Amsterdam Coffee Festival was an opportunity to provide information to potential investors and coffee retailers how to deal with Rwanda. This Side Up has years of experience in direct marketing in Rwanda and was there – with the Embassy of Rwanda – to answer any question about starting and maintaining direct trade relationships with Rwandan producers.    

ICC new President and Vice-presidents

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ICC new President and Vice-presidents
Pictured here from left to right: ICC First Vice-President Judge Robert Fremr, ICC President Judge Chile Eboe-Osuji, ICC Second Vice-President Judge Marc Perrin de Brichambaut © ICC-CPI. Today, 11 March 2018, the judges of the International Criminal Court (ICC), sitting in a plenary session, elected Judge Chile Eboe-Osuji (Nigeria) as President of the Court for a three-year term with immediate effect. Judge Robert Fremr (Czech Republic) was elected First Vice-President and Judge Marc Perrin de Brichambaut (France) Second Vice-President. “I am deeply honoured to have been elected by my peers as President of the International Criminal Court. As I take up my duties, I feel encouraged that I am able to rely on the wide experience of the two Vice-Presidents, Judge Robert Fremr and Judge Marc Perrin de Brichambaut, both of whom I have closely worked with previously. I look forward to working together with them as well as with all the judges, all the Officials and the staff of the Court in a spirit of collegiality. I also look forward to collaborating with the Assembly of States Parties, civil society and the international community at large, acting together to strengthen and reinforce the Rome Statute system, the 20th anniversary of the adoption of which we celebrate this year”, President Chile Eboe-Osuji stated following the election. “I am also grateful to the previous President, Judge Silvia Fernández de Gurmendi, and Vice-Presidents, Judges Joyce Aluoch and Kuniko Ozaki, for their work and leadership,” he added. The Presidency – consisting of the President and the two Vice-Presidents – plays a key role in providing strategic leadership to the ICC as a whole. The Presidency coordinates with the other organs and seeks the concurrence of the Prosecutor on matters of mutual concern. In accordance with the Rome Statute, the ICC’s governing treaty, the Presidency is responsible for the proper administration of the Court, with the exception of the Office of the Prosecutor. The Presidency oversees the activities of the Registry and provides input into a broad range of administrative policies affecting the Court’s overall functioning. Furthermore it conducts judicial review of certain decisions of the Registrar and concludes Court-wide cooperation agreements with States and international organizations.

ICC President Issues End of Mandate Report

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ICC President Issues End of Mandate Report
President of the International Criminal Court, Silvia Fernández de Gurmendi, Issues End of Mandate Report Today, 9 March 2018, the President of the International Criminal Court, Judge Silvia Fernández de Gurmendi, published an end of mandate report, summarizing the main initiatives she promoted on a priority basis during her three-year term at the helm of the institution. The report describes actions undertaken to improve the efficiency and effectiveness of the Court and to enhance external support. “As my time at the Court is coming to an end, I considered it appropriate to report on actions that were undertaken to pursue the objectives I declared as my priorities to my fellow judges before my election three years ago and which I have reconfirmed since to the international community on multiple occasions.”, President Fernández said. “I hope this report will help external observers and those working at the Court to understand the efforts made during the past three years to enhance the performance of the Court, and contribute to the development of further initiatives by its future leadership. I remain convinced that, while safeguarding its judicial independence, the Court must constantly strive to enhance the speed and quality of the justice that it delivers in order to increase its own credibility and foster external support.” The largest part of the report discusses initiatives undertaken to enhance efficiency and effectiveness within the judiciary of the Court, particularly through the collective review of proceedings by the judges and the resulting measures to expedite the judicial process. The second part of the report addresses Court-wide efforts to enhance efficiency through increased coordination among the organs, and the development of performance indicators for the Court. Finally, the report describes outward attempts to promote understanding for the Court and the Trust Fund for Victims and enhance cooperation and support by the international community, including through increased engagement with other courts and the broader legal community. The report concludes with short-term recommendations on the continuation of various ongoing initiatives, including on the harmonization of proceedings on victims’ participation and reparation, the development of an ICC Case Law Database, and efforts to increase gender parity at the Court. Judge Fernández’s mandate as President and judge of the Court ends on Saturday 10 March 2018; a new President as well as two vice-presidents will be elected by the judges of the Court the following day in accordance with Article 38(1) of the Rome Statute.

Wassenaar: VVD reaches out to the expat community

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Wassenaar: VVD reaches out to the expat community
Caroline Klaver-Bouman, during her speech in Wassenaar. By Guido Lanfranchi. On Tuesday March 6th, VVD Wassenaar and Diplomat Magazine co-organized a forum for the expat community of Wassenaar. How would the municipality of their dreams look like? Tuesday March 6th, Wassenaar. The environment around the beautiful Auberge De Kieviet was particularly lively. A number of people entered the hotel’s reception room. Some of them came from The Netherlands; many others, although residents in Wassenaar, came from all corners of the world. Among them, several Ambassadors, diplomats, and expat workers residing in the pretty municipality neighboring The Hague.
H.E. Ms. Sahar Ghanem, Ambassador of Yemen.
H.E. Ms. Sahar Ghanem, Ambassador of Yemen,  H.E. Ms. VestineNahimana, Ambassador of Burundi, and the Charge d’affaires of Venezuela, Mr. Alvaro Sanchez Cordero attended the event, together with diplomats from the Embassies of the United States, Venezuela, and India. At the entrance, the guests were welcomed by VVD members Gerbrand Nijman and Caroline Klaver-Bouman, together with a special guest: a cardboard Mark Rutte! In a crowded reception room, Mr. Nijman took the floor to kick-start the discussion, praising the collaboration between VVD and Diplomat Magazine in organizing the event. After a brief explanation of the expats’ right to vote, Mr. Nijman left the floor to Ms. Klaver-Bouman, VVD’s first candidate in Wassenaar.
H.E. Ms. Vestine Nahimana, Ambassador of Burundi.
As the leading candidate of the team, Ms. Klaver-Bouman briefly introduced the audience to VVD’s basic tenet, freedom of choice for the citizens, under the shelter of a light, effective state. Moving on local issues, Ms. Klaver-Bouman outlined the three main points of VVD’s project for Wassenaar: this beautiful village’s political independence; the improvement of local municipal services; and a precise solution, “the N44 tunnel”, against the chief disturbing problem, traffic.
Guido Lanfranchi, Marisa Ansink and the Chargé d’affaires of Venezuela, Mr. Alvaro Sanchez Cordero.
Later on, Laurens van Doeveren, Ms. Klaver-Bouman’s “running mate” in VVD’s list, took the floor. His experiences in the Dutch Parliament and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, he explained, drew him closer to the international community in The Netherlands, making him more aware of expats’ problems.
Mr. Gerbrand Nijman.
Finally, the Deputy Head of Mission of the British Embassy in The Hague, Mr. Nicholas Heath, engaged the audience, presenting himself as a “professional expat.” Having himself been an expat several times, he explained how feeling at home in a new place is a slow and gradual process, that starts as an obligation, but ends up being a joy. As a part of this process, he stressed the relevance of expats’ political engagement, encouraging all those present to participate in the local elections. After this introduction, Mr. Nijman and Ms. Klaver-Bouman opened the floor for a lively, interactive discussion with the audience. The participants took the floor, outlining the problems that expats might face upon their arrival in Wassenaar: they stressed especially issues related with language and cultural differences, with a specific focus on difficult situations for families with children. But the discussion was not focused on problems only.
H.E. Ms. Sahar Ghanem, Ambassador of Yemen, Mr. Edwin Klaver, H.E. Ms. VestineNahimana, Ambassador of Burundi and Caroline Klaver-Bouman.
The attendees and the organizers engaged in an effort to come up with new ideas, proposals, and solutions. Among them, the organization of more events for expats, the availability of communications in English, and the improvement of the expats’ welcome in Wassenaar. On this last point, the suggestions were copious, ranging from the creation of a voluntary welcome committee, to the establishment of a contact point for expats in the town hall. During the night, VVD and Dimplomat Magazine also seized the opportunity to launch their new initiative, the Expat and Diplomatic Advisory Council. This Council is a permanent body aimed at collecting expats’ issues, in order to address them in an effective way. As Mr. Nijman suggested in his concluding remarks, while many political actors talk about improving the situation of expats in Wassenaar, only few of them actually do something in this regard. As demonstrated over the night, VVD Wassenaar wants to be among those acting, and acting for the better. On this final note, Mr. Nijman invited the participants to enjoy drinks and conversations in the Auberge De Kieviet’s reception room. The attendees gladly took up the suggestion, remaining at length to exchange more ideas and insights. While the participants were gradually leaving the reception room, VVD members were already thinking about the expats’ suggestions, trying to devise new solutions to make Wassenaar the municipality of their dreams.  

A dive into the taste of Pakistani food

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A dive into the taste of Pakistani food
The Ambassador of Pakistan, H.E. Mr. Shujjat Ali Rathore, with chefs Iftikhar Ahmad Chugthai, Muhammad Nazeer, Sido de Brabander and par of the  public attending the Pakistani Food Festival. By Guido Lanfranchi. On February 23rd, 2018, the Hotel Crowne Plaza Den Haag hosted the Pakistani Food Festival, organized by the Embassy of Pakistan in The Netherlands, in collaboration with Diplomat Magazine. While a cold wind was blowing outside, the guests gathered in the main hall of Crowne Plaza Hotel; among them, a number of workers of international organizations, diplomats and Ambassadors. The Ambassador of Pakistan, H.E. Mr. Shujjat Ali Rathore, together with his spouse, welcomed the guests one by one at the entrance, while the staff of Crowne Plaza offered fresh drinks to the presents.
Jhr Alexander W. Beelaerts van Blokland and the ambassador of Pakistan.
Once a crowd had gathered in the hall, Mr. Patrick Aarsman, General Manager of Crowne Plaza, welcomed all the guest. He thanked the Embassy of Pakistan and Diplomat Magazine for the organization, and he gave the floor to H.E. Shujjat Ali Rathore. The Ambassador thanked all the presents, and expressed his joy for having the possibility to “share our spicy Pakistani food with our friends in The Netherlands.” He then introduced the three protagonists of the night: the chefs. Iftikhar Ahmad Chugthai, a chef with 25 years of experience in five-star hotels, and Muhammad Nazeer, a chef trained by the Pakistani Navy and with 40 years of experience, came from Pakistan in order to serve their delicious food to the guests. They were helped in this endeavor by Sido de Brabander, professional chef at Crowne Plaza. After the introduction ceremony, the Ambassador invited the guests to take their places at the tables of Crowne Plaza’s restaurant. Soon after that, the staff of the restaurant was already providing the participants with the starters, consisting of a plate filled with Kebab, Daal (lentil) soup, Pakora with mint sauce, and a Aalo Channa (salad with chickpeas). After the guests finished their starters, the chefs proudly unveiled the buffet with the main courses. Among them, chicken tandoori and chicken biryani, a lamb stew (Mutton Qorma), and Lahori fried fish. As side dishes, many different options were present in the buffet: a mix of vegetables, a cucumber salad, the Pakistani Saag tin and Daal mash, and naan bread. When the guests had enjoyed the main courses, theicing on the cake arrived at the tables: the desserts. The restaurant’s staff served a big dish composed by Kheer (a rice pudding), Jaleebi (a fried biscuit with syrup), and a mix of various Pakistani sweets.The guests kept on having lively conversations at their tables, while enjoying the delicious dessert. When the dinner was over, the guests started to move across tables, engaging in new conversations with other people. In the meanwhile, more guests arrived, joining the participants in both the food taste and the conversations. In this comfortable environment, the event continued for some time, until the guests started leaving the Crowne Plaza, satisfied by an incredibly enjoyable night.

The Embassy of Pakistan opens the door to the students

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The Embassy of Pakistan opens the door to the students
H.E. Ambassador Shujjat Ali Rathore,  Mr. Waseem Shahzad, First Secretary of the Embassy, and Mr. Syed Mahmood Hassan, Commercial Counsellor together with students from Leiden University. By Guido Lanfranchi.  On February 6th, 2018, the Embassy of Pakistan in The Hague has received a visit by a group of students from Leiden University. H.E. Ambassador Shujjat Ali Rathore engaged in a long and lively conversation with the students. On Tuesday morning, the Embassy of Pakistan received a delegation of students from Leiden University. Around 11h00 the students gathered at the Embassy’s entrance in Amaliastraat, The Hague. Kindly received by the staff of the Embassy, the students were accompanied in the reception room, where they were soon joined by the Ambassador, H.E. Mr. Shujjat Ali Rathore, together with Mr. Waseem Shahzad, First Secretary of the Embassy, and Mr. Syed Mahmood Hassan, Commercial Counsellor. The Ambassador paved the way for a quick round of introductions. The students, coming from several different countries such as India, Italy, Portugal, and Hungary, quickly introduced themselves. Given their academic focus on the field of International Relations, most of their questions focused on issues related to Pakistan’s role in the international political scenario.
Ambassador Rathore during the meeting with staff and university students.
The students started the Q&A with the Ambassador by asking questions about the China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), an incredibly relevant geopolitical topic in South Asia. Given his previous experience as Deputy Head of Mission at the Pakistani Embassy in Beijing, the Ambassador was definitely the right person to answer the students’ questions on this issue. He delved into the “win-win bilateral relationship between Pakistan and China,” mentioning several examples of joint Chinese-Pakistani projects in the framework of CPEC, among which the port of Gwadar. Then, the Ambassador also addressed the topic of Pakistan’s economic development. He highlighted the government’s effort in reducing inequality across regions, explaining to the students the local political environment surrounding the CPEC endeavor. The conversation also focused on Pakistan’s relation with its “big brother to the East,” India, and the dispute on the Kashmir region. Finally, the inevitable question on the relation between Pakistan and the US, and the debated issue of the control of the border with Afghanistan. On this topic, the Ambassador highlighted the hard work done by the Pakistani government, and wished a positive outcome for the recent small quarrels with the United States. Despite everything – the Ambassador said – the US remains a “very important partner for Pakistan.” These intense and interesting talks were accompanied by drinks and snacks, among which the traditional Pakistani samosa, kindly offered by the staff of the Pakistani Embassy. When the Ambassador finally had to leave the meeting, the staff invited the students to enjoy some more drinks. The students thus remained a bit longer in the Embassy talking with the staff, before gradually leaving the building extremely satisfied by the meeting.

International Migration, a challenge

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International Migration, a challenge
By Roy Lie Atjam. The Hague, 19 February 2018 – The day the Hon. Shahidul Haque Foreign Secretary of the Government of Bangladesh delivered a discourseentitled “Global compact for migration (Governance?): issues zero draft and the way forward” at Erasmus University – ISS The Hague. Foreign Secretary Shahidul Haque, was on a trip that took him to the USA and Europe. Mr. Haque obtained an MA in International Relations from the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, USA (1988) He also holds a Masters in Social Welfare from the University of Dhaka. Mr. Shahidul Haque has been serving as Foreign Secretary since 2013. He was the Chair of the 9th Global Forum on Migration and Development (GFMD). He is an Independent Expert to the UN Committee on the Rights of All Migrant Workers and Members of their Families (CMW) for the term 2014-2017 and has recently been re-elected for another 4-year term (2018-2021) After a cordial welcome, Institute of Social Studies ISS Dr. Des Gasper, Professor of Human Development, Development Ethics and Public Policy, introduced the guest-speaker Mr. Shahidul Haque and the theme of his discourse. Mr. Shahidul Haque elaborated on his presentation entitled Global compact for migration (Governance?) issues zero draft and the way forward. Shahidul Haque is, by all means, an authority on International Migration, he mesmerized his audience which was made-up of academics, students, special invitees and Ambassadors from countries such as Malaysia, Bangladesh, South Korea to name a few. Shahidul Haque laments the fact that to date there is no global regime to deal with migration. Migration is a hot international item. A good 258 million migrants are currently on the move worldwide. De facto, people are vulnerable when on the move. Access to resources and power mostly determine vulnerability. Haque recognizes migratory flows, mixed migration – mixed drivers: work, human trafficking, displacement and refugees. Further, migrationis a circular movement and not one that runs from A to B as was once thought by some.. Governance, four prominent challenges are facing states, sovereignty, protection, security, human rights, capacity and resources. How could they be addressed effectively? As for the zero draft dated 5 Feb. 2018, it resulted in a ten guiding framework and twenty-two objectives/actionable commitments. It further declares compact would be non-legally binding, no reference to the 1990 migration convention, no reference to governance and a tremendously vague implementation.The action required, Shahidul Haque proposes among others, a global leadership for an ambitious, balanced and rights-based compact. Compact must be a political and normative instrument. Mr. Shahidul Haque briefly touched on the effects of global climate change, the Havana declaration, the Rohingya refugees. The government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh is resolved to deal with the influx of Rohingya refugees despite her population of 160 million. Solidarity and fraternity compel Bangladesh to react in this manner. The Honorable Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina reminded her compatriots of the days when several million Bangladeshi nationals took up refuge in India. Mr. Shahidul Haque recounts, some Bangladeshi women became devastated after listening to Rohingya women of whom some had been raped 19 times in one day. It has been a revealing delivery and a tremendous pleasure listening to the migration savvy that Mr. Shahidul Haque is.

Jewerelly accesoires from 1920 to 1970 by Van Cleef & Arpels

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Jewerelly accesoires from 1920 to 1970 by Van Cleef & Arpels
Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels’ boutique. About fifty objets d’art created between the 1920s and the beginning of the 1970s from Van Cleef & Arpels collection are unveiled at a bespoke exhibition. Preserved by the Maison, vanity-boxes, Minaudières™, evening bags and compacts reveal another facet of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creativity, namely fashion accessories. Loyal to trends, gestures and rituals of their time, these precious objects also bear witness to the evolution of materials and sources of inspiration over the decades. Practical information: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Boutique Galerie du Patrimoine 20, place Vendôme, FR- 75001 PARIS From 22 January 22 to 18 March 2018 From Monday to Saturday, 11 am to 7 pm For further information: http://www.vancleefarpels.com/eu/fr/la-maison/newsroom.html
Exposition “Accessoires joailliers de 1920 à 1970” chez Van Cleef & Arpels

Hong Kong Takes on London Fashion Week

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Hong Kong Takes on London Fashion Week
DăCuòLe Vol. II collection by HEAVEN PLEASE+ remixes 1950s Western style with Hong Kong fashion.  For the first time ever, Hong Kong designers were represented at one of the fashion industry’s most esteemed events. Most designers can only dream of showing their work at London Fashion Week (LFW), where Britain’s Queen Elizabeth attended this year’s show for the first time. But such lofty aspirations became a reality for some of Hong Kong’s most talented designers, who were selected by the British Fashion Council to showcase their AW2018 collections at the presentation with Fashion Hong Kong, a series of international events organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) to promote Hong Kong fashion designers in the global fashion arena. Four Hong Kong designers became among the first local designers to present their collections at one of the most hotly anticipated dates on the fashion calendar. In addition to staging designer showcases at Store Studios at LFW’s Designer Showroom, the designers featured their work at a fashion presentation that incorporated installation art at Somerset House on the Strand.
Dora Chu, founder and Creative Director of Maison Vermillion.
A Perfect Mix of East and West Dora Chu, founder and Creative Director of Maison Vermillion Maison Vermillion’s AW 2018 collection, The Greatest of Thee, pays tribute to the love affair between Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn with pieces incorporating English rose patterns, lace applique and daring checks. Describing her work as a melting pot of Eastern and Western influences, Central Saint Martins graduate Dora Chu worked with some of the biggest British fashion houses, including Alexander McQueen and Jenny Packham, whose CEO, Mathew Anderson, was among those attending the show. At the presentation, a sequinned black evening dress delivered a dash of glamour, as did diamante details on dresses. “I wanted the pieces to shimmer so customers could get a feel for the collection,” she says, adding that showing her work in London has been a sentimental journey given her UK link.
XX attends the Fashion Hong Kong Presentation at Somerset House on February 16, 2018 in London, England.
  Ms Chu’s latest collection also embraces her Chinese roots by incorporating into garments paper-cut patterns by artist Li Yun Xia. Using special weaving and laser-cut techniques, Ms Chu created pieces with strong cross-cultural elements – think Western lace meets Chinese traditional paper-cutting art – most spectacularly onto the back of a green bomber jacket. Using digital printing technology, Maison Vermillion incorporated Chinese traditional paper-cutting art onto the back of a green bomber jacket Ms Chu’s work has appeared at Copenhagen Fashion Week and Shanghai Ontime Show in collaboration with Fashion Hong Kong, and she says both were very welcoming to emerging brands, adding that entering other markets such as the Chinese mainland or the UK is crucial to her brand’s development. Working for major names such as Alexander McQueen taught Ms Chu to focus on attention to detail and craftsmanship, even on modern-day street wear. Ms Chu is considering incorporating other Chinese crafts into future collections. Architecturally Inspired
Vickie Au is the brains behind HOUSE OF V.
Embracing the precision of architectural drawings, HOUSE OF V’s latest collection make workwear more interesting by offering traditional silhouettes with abstract patterns.
Vickie Au is the brains behind HOUSE OF V Embracing the precision of architectural drawings, HOUSE OF V’s latest collection make workwear more interesting by offering traditional silhouettes with abstract patterns The “V” in the fashion label HOUSE OF V represents designer Vickie Au’s philosophy of using simple lines to create depth. Its AW 2018 collection, Unexpected/Habitual, was inspired by a speech from Polish-American architect Daniel Libeskind, who stated that architecture is driven by optimism and a sense of wonder. Embracing the precision of architectural drawings and Mr Libeskind’s idea to unite opposing ideas, Ms Au sought to make workwear more interesting by offering traditional silhouettes with abstract patterns. Driven by simple shapes and texture blocks, collar details create a talking point. “I always think about simplicity and play on the mix-and-match with colour blocking and texture mixing to ensure my pieces are easy to wear,” says Ms Au. When she started working as a designer in Hong Kong 15 years ago, high rental costs presented a challenge to many young creatives like herself looking to get a foot in the door. The fashion retail landscape has also changed considerably since then, she adds. “Until the early 2000s, we didn’t have a Zara or H&M, so the [stores we find on Hong Kong’s] high streets have altered a lot.” While independent designers still face high-street competition, Ms Au believes the tide is turning. “Shoppers now look for something different and they don’t mind paying a bit more. My minimalistic designs fall in the middle range, so it’s around HK$1,600-$2,000 for a dress, which is roughly the same as many popular fashion labels.” With a focus on accessible designs, Ms Au believes HOUSE OF V has global appeal. “I don’t just follow what’s on trend when designing my collection; it’s more about the cut and the shape.” UK-based lifestyle magazine Wallpaper* featured the brand’s collective presentation work as one of the Editor’s Picks. Heavenly Offerings Lary Cheung and Yi Chan co-founded HEAVEN PLEASE+DăCuòLe Vol. II collection by HEAVEN PLEASE+ remixes 1950s Western style with Hong Kong fashion HEAVEN PLEASE+ proves that the fashion retail concept is far from dead, as its popular boutique is name-checked in the Louis Vuitton Hong Kong City Guide as one of the best shops to visit. Its second-half AW 2018 collection (following the New York collection), DăCuòLe Vol. II, is inspired by the novel of the same name from Hong Kong novelist Liu Yichang and remixes 1950s Western style with Hong Kong fashion. One piece that generated buzz at the presentation was a white knee-length dress with voluminous ruffles on the hem and sleeves while floor-length macs featuring bold red and blue patterns added a pop of colour. “London is a colourful city and prefers designs with strong expression and vivid colours, so we wanted to create something cheerful,” says Lary Cheung, who founded the label along with Yi Chan. Being in London brings back fond memories for the duo, who both studied fashion at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. When they established HEAVEN PLEASE+ in 2011, following stints at British labels Kent & Curwen and Aquascutum for Mr Cheung and a fashion editor role at Marie Clare for Ms Chan, they visited more than 100 fashion retail and vintage stores in London and Paris to get inspiration for their boutique. HEAVEN PLEASE+ has a showroom in Tsim Sha Tsui and a Causeway Bay boutique that aims to deliver a more unique and exclusive styling experience than ordinary fashion shops. “Here, customers can tell us about their style expectations and get to know the brand as we familiarise ourselves with their behaviour, their job and preferences. It’s about developing a long-term relationship,” says Ms Chan. Check it Out METHODOLOGY founder Glori Tsui
METHODOLOGY founder Glori Tsui.
METHODOLOGY’s Glori Tsui started as a graphic designer for Disney’s children’s wear range after studying illustration at the Art Center College of Design in Southern California. Keen to break into fashion, she completed a master’s degree in fashion design at Nottingham Trent University and launched her first collection in 2012. METHODOLOGY’s AW 2018 collection, entitled Plaid Block, pits the brand’s signature silhouettes, such as a wide-legged trousers, against plaid patterns, solid colours and layered textures. At the presentation, models stood or sat against a plaid backdrop, the same fabric used in one of the collection’s coats and skirts. “Everything started in the UK for me, so it means a lot [to be showing at LFW],” says Ms Tsui. METHODOLOGY’s AW 2018 collection, entitled Plaid Block, pits the brand’s signature silhouettes, such as a wide-legged trousers, against plaid patterns, solid colours and layered textures. According to Ms Tsui, Hong Kong is becoming much more design-driven. “In the pas
METHODOLOGY’s AW 2018 collection, entitled Plaid Block, pits the brand’s signature silhouettes, such as a wide-legged trousers, against plaid patterns, solid colours and layered textures.
t, we would do a lot of OEM, but Hong Kong has more of a focus on design these days, and it’s the same for the Chinese mainland. I think our designs are getting more recognised internationally.”   As Hong Kong is a small city, the design community is quite tight knit, she adds. “You get to know most of the other designers – HOUSE OF V and HEAVEN PLEASE+ both have a store in the same mall as me. Hong Kong malls are supportive of local designers as customers are looking for something really different. With globalisation, so many malls look the same, so [the fact that shoppers are] looking for something different is good for us.” ——————- Text and pictures by HKTDC.
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